Return to Morrocco
It’s been two decades or more since I travelled alone through this part of the world, and I was a bit unsure how it would be this time around. There was some background anxiety about travelling with the family; in what is still a very poor country, and with potentially heavy surf breaks for the kids. Reports of localism and hassle are always a worry: neither have ever been on our wish list when dreaming of warm water and peeling point breaks.
As is so often the case, it turns out we needn’t have worried. The scene ashore in Taghazout these days is mellow, and the streets in Banana village happily chaotic. Much less hussle generally in the region than there was in my memory. It’s cheap to eat in or out, and the surf-centred accommodation that has developed around the village makes it easy to find somewhere to stay with the kids.
The markets are full of fantastic fish, fruit & veggies. A colourful if poignant reminder of what we’ve lost in our sanitised, supermarket dominated economy. There are even surf shops. These guys are doing a great business fixing dings and renting pop-outs to passing tourists.
Has surf- tourism benefited poor local people? Mixed response to this one. Yes there are local people employed: a service industry spawned by the tourist Dirham. Are the economic benefits reaching the poorest? Debatable: the usual suspects are lining up to exploit the real estate potential and skim off the cream… and most of them are not poor local residents.
And the surf? Well away from the more crowded high profile spots, you can still find yourself a sweet little corner to chill out and score some peachy waves. As with many of the world’s key surf zones there is always something around the headland. A bit of effort with timing, or exploring, will find you what you’re looking for.
But for now, the farm can wait, Matt
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