sweet tea and hold-downs
I never get much sleep the night before. When a big swell is forecast at this time of year I find myself waking up to check on the time at three, or four in the morning. Up at six to put the kettle on, fill a flask with sweet tea and off into the dark; bound for whichever spot might hold the size and still have a chance of being clean.
Nerves are a real issue for me when one of those big sets booms around the headland, or appears over the horizon. I try to concentrate on breathing. Partly to calm my nerves and partly for practical reasons: if there is going to be a long hold-down or a crazy wipeout, then its probably as well to have plenty of oxygen in the bloodstream.
So much of making the drop into bigger waves is mental: physically it’s all do-able as long as your board is long enough and you’re in the right spot. But a moments hesitation can mean the difference between the most natural and thrilling descent on the one hand and the worst of wipeouts on the other.
the farm can wait, Matt the farmer
Respect T.. takes some nerve or lack of sanity to get those shots. Top shelf stuff!