Water Love
Surfers know they love the water, but do they know why? There are moments for all of us when conditions are just so perfect that we are filled with emotion. Stirred by the beauty in glassy walls of fluid energy, we are drawn to join with the waves and caress their soft curves.
Sometimes the sight of perfect waves provokes a nervous response to the point that we can hardly get into the water quickly enough; and the scramble for kit…boards, cameras, wetsuits, becomes a frenzy of trembling anticipation. But why are we moved in that way?
It doesn’t happen often enough of course: windswept spring days on the open beaches with 2ft dross dribbling onto the sand is hardly what we dream of when trying to remember what it is that makes us struggle into a clammy wetsuit in the morning.
But Rob Puig has been using this flat spell to study water a little more closely. Maybe he understands.
We are 65% water. We came from the water some time in our evolutionary history. After a few hours without it we go mad. Wars have been, and will be fought over it.
And sometimes its just, plain, beautiful.
Matt the Farmer, the farm can wait
love it
sometimes it does not have to be perfect to give you that feeling that you remember for days. yesterday i surfed 2-3ft wind swell at the never scenic and very rarely perfect bournemouth pier. i rode my mates board that he has been telling me is just right for the waves for 3 years. you know what - it was, the waves just kept lining up, the usual crowds had not worked out the swell and i was pulling off moves i just don’t normally link together.
i got out, stopped and looked back at the beach and the water. i’ve just had a baby, been working like a dog and stressed. it stank of burgers, it was packed with tourists, brown, cold and a mess. i thought - i love this sport, life is good. only surfing can do that.
